Ideas To Develop A Small Writing Desk With Drawer

After considering several options for using this space between the cabinets in the guest room, I finally decided to build a small DIY desk with a drawer. It is a very simple and relatively fast construction project. I completed this basic build in an afternoon / evening. If you are fairly new to DIY furniture construction and want to try a fairly simple construction, this is a great piece to try.

I still have to decide how to finish the desktop (color? stain?). Right now, I tend to spot, but we’ll see.

This desk measures 30 “h x 48″ w x 20 ” D. So let me start from the beginning and show you how I built this simple little desk, and of course you can adjust the dimensions to get the desk exactly to the size you need for your particular space.

How To Build A Desktop Base

The base of the Desk was made with 1″ x 4 “wood and 1.75” x 1.75″square pegs. I cut the pieces as follows, but of course they can be adjusted to design the desk in any size you want.

  • Two side aprons cut to 15 1/2 inches long with 1″ x 4 ” wood
  • A back apron cut to 42 1/2 inches long with 1 “x 4” wood
  • A front apron cut to 42 5/8 inches long, then cut into three pieces – two small pieces of fixed apron that are 8 inches long, and the rest will be used as a front drawer, with 1″ x 4 ” wood (note: if you are going to stain the desk, make sure that this piece is cut so that the grain of the wood is continuous from one end to the other.)
  • Four legs cut to 29.25 inches long, with 1 3/4 ” square pegs
  • With my Kreg pocket template, I drilled pocket holes on the sides of all the pieces of apron.

Here’s how these looked drilled with all the pocket holes. You will find that the central front part (i.e. The front of the drawer) does not need pocket holes.

I assembled these parts, starting with the side apron. I put wood glue on the end of the side apron, and then with Kreg right-angle pliers, I glued the side apron to the leg. I like aprons on tables and desks that are slightly set back from the legs, so I used a 1″ x 4″ piece of wood (which is actually 3/4″ thick) as a spacer under the side apron. After the parts were glued and tightened, I screwed the parts with the pocket holes pre-drilled.

Then I repeated this process on the other side of this apron piece-sticking, tightening and screwing the pieces together.

This is what the back (i.e. the side that would be under the desk) of this piece looked like when assembled…

And this is how the front side (that is, the side visible on the finished desktop) looked after assembly…

Then I placed the assembled side piece on its edge and fixed the back apron piece in the same way, placing it on a 1 “x 4” piece of wood as a spacer before gluing, tightening and screwing the pieces together…

After repeating this process on the other side, the base at that time looked like this…

To install the two small stationary apron pieces in the front, I placed the Desk base in the front…

And then attached the small pieces of front bumper like the others-spacers underneath, glue, clamp, and screw the pieces together.

With the two small front apron pieces it looked like this…

Then I checked the measurement of the front bumper.…

And marked the same measure on the back piece of apron…

And then after measuring the distance between the front and back apron pieces (I made this measurement near the legs)…

…I cut a piece of 1 “x 4” wood around the length and attached it as shown below, with the mark I had drawn on the back apron for placement.

To fix this piece, I used my 16 gauge nail gun with 1 1/2-inch nails and simply pulled the nails through the front and back aprons into the edges of the piece.

I just use a little wood filler to fill these holes before painting or coloring the desktop. However, if you have objections to pulling nails through the front apron, you can also fix this part with pocket holes.

After repeating this process on the other side, I was ready to cut and fix the table top. At that point, however, I realized that I forgot to drill the pocket holes to fix the top. So I had to get a little creative by installing the Kreg pocket hole jig upside down and drilling the holes upside down. It wasn’t really a big deal. It certainly would have been easier if I remembered to do this before assembling the base, but it worked fine.

And more on the other side. I also drilled a few on the front apron pieces that you obviously can’t see in these photos.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *